At the northern tip of the Southern Alps lies Nelson Lakes National Park. Ten thousand years ago, glaciers crawled their way down the valleys then receded. What remained were two deep lakes. Today they are called Lake Rotoiti and Lake Rotoroa. For a mountain experience in New Zealand, this is a great place to visit.
Lake Rotoiti from Mt Robert ridgeline
Surrounding the lakes, slopes cloaked in beech forest ascend from the valley floors and stop abruptly at higher altitude. From here, exposed ridgelines, tarns and rocky peaks command the environment where temperatures can plummet and bring snowfall to the area.
Nelson Lakes National Park was established in 1956 and is managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC). Outdoor activities include hiking, climbing, skiing, canoeing, fishing and hunting.
At the northern end of Lake Rotoiti, St Arnaud township is the base for many of these activities. It is a quiet settlement, except for the summer holidays and events.
It has one shop, the St Arnaud Village Alpine Store. The store is open seven days a week and sells petrol, groceries and take away food. There are also few other places where you can buy coffee and food.
St Arnaud Village Alpine Store
Located off the main road is a visitor’s centre. This is administered by DOC. The centre has good display panels depicting the history, geology, vegetation and wildlife of the area. In addition, maps, hut tickets, information on tracks, weather conditions, souvenirs and fishing and hunting licences are available. It is open seven days a week.
Visitors Centre
Accommodation
Lodges, motels, holiday homes and backpackers are all catered for in the park. Prices range from $35.00 per night at backpackers to five star accommodation at Lake Rotoroa Lodge. If you can get a group together to rent a holiday home, prices can be very affordable.
Lake Rotoroa Lodge
The camping grounds are managed by DOC and are categorized by their facilities, serviced, scenic and standard. Lake Rotoiti has two campgrounds. Kerr Bay is serviced, and West Bay is scenic. Lake Rotoroa has a standard campsite.
Outdoor Activities
Near St Arnaud, there is a good selection of short walks. You can see old glacial moraine deposits, kettle ponds or listen to the sounds of bellbirds and tuis in the ancient beech forests. These walks range from 15 minutes to an hour and a half.
Two popular day walks are St Arnaud Range and Mt Robert Circuit. Both these walks climb above the bushline and offer spectacular views of the lake, alpine basins and surrounding peaks. It is also possible to walk around Lake Rotoiti in one very long day.
Overlooking Lake Angelus
At Lake Rotoroa, short walks are popular through the tall podocarp-beech forests. These are dominated by Kahikatea, New Zealand’s tallest tree. There are four walks, ranging from 15 minutes to three hours.
At the headwaters of each lake, trails take you further into the park, over high passes, along ridge tops and alpine basins. The trails are maintained by DOC, and there are good backcountry huts to stay in. Huts vary in price from five to thirty dollars per night, according to their facilities and services.
The park also has many 2,000 plus metre peaks and offers climbers a good selection of challenges.
Relax Shelter on Mt Robert ridgeline
Forty minutes by car from St Arnaud is the Rainbow Ski Area. Catering for all levels, it has a day lodge, gear hire and a café. Accommodation is only available at St Arnaud.
If you like ski touring, another alternative is walking to an old ski field called Mt Robert. Snow basins and smooth ridgelines offer excellent ski touring opportunities. It is a two-hour walk from Mt Robert car park, above Lake Rotoiti.
Both lakes offer great canoeing for those who want to explore their bays and shores. Kayak and canoe hire are available.
Recreation activities on Lake Rotoiti
Fishing for Brown Trout is popular at both lakes and requires a licence. (The Lake Rotoroa area is famous for its Brown Trout). Rainbow Trout can also be caught at Lake Rotoroa and its feeder rivers.
Hunting in the park is allowed in designated areas. Red deer, chamois, and the occasional pigs and feral goats are hunted. Permits are required. Fishing licences and hunting permits are available from DOC.
In brief, Nelson Lakes National Park is a real gem and remains relatively undeveloped. In summer, the camping grounds get busy, and the lakes are visited by families from Nelson and Blenheim on day trips. However, with the many access points inside the park, it is an easy place to explore and find solitude and adventure.
Extra Info
Lake Rotoiti is 617 metres above sea level and 8km long.
Lake Rotoroa is 448 metres above sea level and is 14.4km long.
New Zealand’s Alpine Fault line cuts through the northern boundary of the park.
The highest mountain is Mt Franklin at 2,340 metres.
Population of St Arnaud approximately 113 (Tasman District Council, 2018).
Lake Rotoiti has some of the oldest longfin eels in the world. One female was recorded at 106 years old.
Driving
Blenheim to Lake Rotoiti
Distance: 103kms Time: 1hr and 30 mins St Arnaud to Lake Rotoroa
Distance: Approx 42kms Time:40 minutes Murchison to Lake Rotoiti
Distance: 59kms Time: 45mins |
Nelson to Lake Rotoroa
Distance 107kms Time: 1hr and 30mins. Nelson to Lake Rotoiti
Distance 88kms Time 1hr and 17 min (turn onto Wai-iti Valley Road, from Highway 6) |
Explore these sites
www.doc.govt.nz A great site providing information on walks, flora and fauna, back country huts and campsites. Bookings can be made online. Printable PDF versions available.
www.nelsonlakesshuttles.co.nz An excellent site about the shuttle bus service for trekkers. Other information includes walks, accommodation (via the links tab) and the water taxi service at Lake Rotoroa.
www.skirainbow.co.nz Information about the ski field and current ski conditions.
www.lakerotoroalodge.com Information and bookings for this upmarket retreat with a focus on brown trout fishing.
www.rotoitiwatertaxis.co.nz Lake transport and kayak hire at Lake Rotoiti
www.nelsonlakesshuttles.co.nz An excellent site about the shuttle bus service for trekkers. Other information includes walks, accommodation (via the links tab) and the water taxi service at Lake Rotoroa.
www.skirainbow.co.nz Information about the ski field and current ski conditions.
www.lakerotoroalodge.com Information and bookings for this upmarket retreat with a focus on brown trout fishing.
www.rotoitiwatertaxis.co.nz Lake transport and kayak hire at Lake Rotoiti
PHOTO CREDITS
Panoramic view of Lake Rotoiti, Image by Zoharby via Wikimedia Commons, (CC BY-SA.3.0), Looking southwards along Lake Rotoroa, Image by MSeses, "Lake Rotoroa, Nelson Lakes National Park" via Wikimedia Commons, (CC BY- SA.3.0), Lake Angelus frozen over, Image by Thomas Johnson, (CC BY-4.0),
Panoramic view of Lake Rotoiti, Image by Zoharby via Wikimedia Commons, (CC BY-SA.3.0), Looking southwards along Lake Rotoroa, Image by MSeses, "Lake Rotoroa, Nelson Lakes National Park" via Wikimedia Commons, (CC BY- SA.3.0), Lake Angelus frozen over, Image by Thomas Johnson, (CC BY-4.0),